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A volcanic natural wonder in the highlands of central Flores, Kelimutu is a trio of crater lakes whose waters shift between turquoise, green, blue, red and near-black. They sit at about 1,639 metres on the summit of Mount Kelimutu, inside the national park of the same name, above the cool, forested village of Moni.

Most visitors rise before dawn and walk the short path from the car park to the upper viewpoints. As the light arrives, mist lifts off the water and the crater walls turn from ink to ochre. Three lakes lie side by side, separated by thin ridges. Two of them share a single caldera. The colours come from dissolved minerals, volcanic gas and shifting oxygen levels, and they change without a fixed pattern.

For the Lio people, the lakes are sacred. Tiwu Ata Mbupu holds the souls of the elders. Tiwu Nuwa Muri Koo Fai receives the souls of the young. Tiwu Ata Polo is the resting place of those who lived badly. Visitors are asked to speak quietly and respect local customs.

Plan for the dry months, roughly May to September, for the clearest skies. Bring a warm layer, because the summit is cold before sunrise.